updated 9/9/2023
Peru: Machu Picchu
We are travel experts for Machu Picchu (MP). We've helped many clients experience this awesome adventure, at the lowest priced packages. We customize the trip for each client - you don't end up on a tour bus with 20 other people who want to do 20 different things. We play around with your dates, which ticket option, train schedules, and what level hotel room you would like. Our backpacker clients choose different hotels from our business clients who like 4-star options.
After you read our webpage, you'll have a good idea and a ballpark figure of costs. We can even work in one of those cheap $1000 roundtrip tickets if you choose to stay overnight in Lima, thus bringing down the cost by a lot. Basically, we work with what you want and tell you the best prices for those options so it fits your budget. Budget - that's in our name!
Read this page so you can tell us which of the 3 tour view options you want at MP.
After you read our webpage, you'll have a good idea and a ballpark figure of costs. We can even work in one of those cheap $1000 roundtrip tickets if you choose to stay overnight in Lima, thus bringing down the cost by a lot. Basically, we work with what you want and tell you the best prices for those options so it fits your budget. Budget - that's in our name!
Read this page so you can tell us which of the 3 tour view options you want at MP.
Current researchers tend to believe that Machu Picchu was a country resort for elite Incas. At any given time, there were no more than 750 people living at Machu Picchu, with far fewer than that during the rainy season. The Incas started building it around 1430AD, but it was abandoned as an official site for the Inca rulers a hundred years later at the time of the Spanish conquest of the Inca Empire.
Step 1: Get to Lima
I can get you the best prices into Lima. Although there are a few flights that fly into Cusco, they are overpriced. The best way to MP is to fly into Lima and then fly to Cusco.
Step 2: Get to Cusco
Peruvian nationals can fly to Cusco relatively cheap, but foreigners like you and I must pay double for the air tickets. But it beats spending 18 hours on the bus. Flight is only about an hour.
Getting Around in Cusco:
Taxis are very common in Cuzco. Officially they cost 2-4 soles depending on distance. Often many drivers are not locals. Beware when using taxis at night; robberies have been reported in collusion with taxi cab drivers, at certain times radio taxis may be the safest option. The driver might also try to extort a hefty sum of money (15 soles) for a short ride if you don't haggle before - which is likely if you're just arriving at night at the bus terminal and want to avoid the hordes of touts. Just pay 5 soles and leave it at that. You can also hire a driver for the day for around 150 soles. This is a great option for a small group and you can tell the driver to stop wherever. This makes a great option if you want to explore the Sacred Valley on your own terms.
Combis are a cheap and reliable form of transportation. These are the Volkswagen vans and small buses with names like Imperial, Batman, or Zorro. It costs about 60 centimos to ride them. If you are unsure if a certain combi will take you where you want to go, just ask. They will call out the stops as they go and if you want to get off, you just yell "Baja!", as in, "I want to get off!" They run until 10PM. But if you are a fan of lots of personal space, this may not be the best option for you, as they tend to be quite full. Carry your backpack in front of you.
Step 3: Get to Ollantaytambo (Sacred Valley)
To get to Ollantaytambo, take a collectivo (comfortable minivans) from Calle Pavitos in Cuzco, which is between Belen and Av Grau, 3 blocks west of Av El So, 15 soles per person ($5). They start early, around 3am, and run every half hour. Look for a newish van with seatbelts. It's a 2 hour ride. Or you can pay a tiny bit more and take a car that takes 30 minutes faster.
Ollantaytambo is a lovely town with some ruins of its own, so it is a good idea to take the collectivo, spend a night in Ollantaytambo, then take the train to Aguas Calientes the next morning.
*There are also cheap trains that the locals take, but non-Peruvians who ride it will get fined. Non-Peruvians pay double for everything in Peru.
What to do while you're lounging around before you take the train out of the city:
Where to eat:
I can get you the best prices into Lima. Although there are a few flights that fly into Cusco, they are overpriced. The best way to MP is to fly into Lima and then fly to Cusco.
Step 2: Get to Cusco
Peruvian nationals can fly to Cusco relatively cheap, but foreigners like you and I must pay double for the air tickets. But it beats spending 18 hours on the bus. Flight is only about an hour.
Getting Around in Cusco:
Taxis are very common in Cuzco. Officially they cost 2-4 soles depending on distance. Often many drivers are not locals. Beware when using taxis at night; robberies have been reported in collusion with taxi cab drivers, at certain times radio taxis may be the safest option. The driver might also try to extort a hefty sum of money (15 soles) for a short ride if you don't haggle before - which is likely if you're just arriving at night at the bus terminal and want to avoid the hordes of touts. Just pay 5 soles and leave it at that. You can also hire a driver for the day for around 150 soles. This is a great option for a small group and you can tell the driver to stop wherever. This makes a great option if you want to explore the Sacred Valley on your own terms.
Combis are a cheap and reliable form of transportation. These are the Volkswagen vans and small buses with names like Imperial, Batman, or Zorro. It costs about 60 centimos to ride them. If you are unsure if a certain combi will take you where you want to go, just ask. They will call out the stops as they go and if you want to get off, you just yell "Baja!", as in, "I want to get off!" They run until 10PM. But if you are a fan of lots of personal space, this may not be the best option for you, as they tend to be quite full. Carry your backpack in front of you.
Step 3: Get to Ollantaytambo (Sacred Valley)
To get to Ollantaytambo, take a collectivo (comfortable minivans) from Calle Pavitos in Cuzco, which is between Belen and Av Grau, 3 blocks west of Av El So, 15 soles per person ($5). They start early, around 3am, and run every half hour. Look for a newish van with seatbelts. It's a 2 hour ride. Or you can pay a tiny bit more and take a car that takes 30 minutes faster.
Ollantaytambo is a lovely town with some ruins of its own, so it is a good idea to take the collectivo, spend a night in Ollantaytambo, then take the train to Aguas Calientes the next morning.
*There are also cheap trains that the locals take, but non-Peruvians who ride it will get fined. Non-Peruvians pay double for everything in Peru.
What to do while you're lounging around before you take the train out of the city:
- Ruins of Ollantaytambo - ruins of largely religious significance, they doubled as the the last and largest defensive structures near the plains below where the Incas defeated the Spaniards in battle. Admission with boleto turistico (can be purchased at entrance to ruins). Or you can get a partial boleto turistico for S/.70 (S/.40 for Peruvians) that gives you one day to see this site and 3 others. Local guides can be hired in the market area below the ruins (S/.20). Or, do it yourself by purchasing the book most of the guides use, ¨Cuzco and the sacred valley of the Incas¨(salazar and salazar) which has an extensive section on Ollantaytambo. The book can be purchased in the market below the ruins (S/.50) or in advance in Cuzco (S/.35). Neither the guides nor the guidebook discuss the battles, for information on this research on your own in advance. Tours focus largely on the unique architectural significance of the sun's rays on the cad face of the canyon wall and on the temple walls, the still functioning fountains, and the large stone operating table. Even if you're not an archaeology buff or ruins fan, these are worth seeing. Beautiful views abound.
- Pinkullyuna is the hill with Incan storehouses overlooking the town and facing the main ruins. To get to the path up to these ruins, follow the road closest to the base of the hill (the rightmost one in the town grid when facing Pinkullyuna). You will see a small sign with an arrow pointing to a steep path, which takes you up to a series of ruins and storehouses. Admission is free, and from here you can see some of the most spectacular views of the Ollantaytambo ruins and town and the Urubamba Valley. It's a lovely hike, and can be done in just an hour or two. Some parts of the various path can be a little harrowing, especially the less oft used side paths (all of these also lead to ruins that are less apparent). Go with a friend or at least make sure you let your hosts know where you have gone in case something should happen.
- Look for houses with red plastic bags hanging outside on posts. These houses are where locals go to drink chicha, a local brew made out of corn. It is a great way to experience the local flavor, provided that you speak enough Spanish to communicate with the other chicha drinkers. It is advisable that you look for a place that serves things other than chicha, as some people find the taste unpleasant. However this is an acquired taste and can be overcome easily. Chicha, unlike masato made in the rainforest is not made by mixing with saliva as erroneously stated in the entry that this is correcting. Careful with the chicha, however - it is sometimes made under unhygienic conditions and it could make you quite sick.
- Visit the Old Town unique in all of Peru, this part of Ollantaytambo was built by the Incas over five hundred years ago is inhabited to date. Entering an Inca cancha or courtyard is like travelling back in time.
Where to eat:
- El Albergue Restaurant within the El Albergue B&B this new restaurant has a first rate open kitchen where you can see your alpaca and trout dinners being prepared. Menu options include homemade fettuccine, sandwiches and great breakfast. In the evening white table cloths are spread, candles are lit, and the restaurant becomes a first rate dining experience.
- Cafe Mayu is on the Ollantaytambo train station where you can grab a very good espresso or cappuccino as well as chocolate chip cookies and brownies. You can browse their menu for great breakfast and lunch options.
- Kusicoyllor Restaurant Cafe offers novo andine & international cuisine,provide a good an unique view to the ruins, a candle lit atmosphere for the dinner,Kusicoyllor restaurant is most common know to have the best coffee in Cusco.Located just near de Ollantaytambo fortress. Phone 204114
- Hearts Cafe, is on Avenida Ventiderio, between the main square and the bridge, with views onto the Inca temple-fortress. Profits go to children's projects in the Sacred Valley. Pleasant pavement dining, quality coffee, fresh and inexpensive food, book exchange, and plenty of magazines.
- KB Tambo, a hostel, restaurant, mountain bike, and adventure tour office, has very excellent food by Chef Alejo, a Chilean native who has lived in Ollanta for 15 years. KB Tambo is located just down the hill towards the ruins from the Main Plaza. www.kbperu.com
- Panaka Grill, ☎ 204047. is on the main plaza. Sit upstairs on their balcony and take in the view of the square while you enjoy the wonderful novoandina and international food. Alpaca steak is great here. Finish off with a cappucino and one of their delicious desserts.
- Quechua Blues Bar. This place is a very laid back spot, located just across the river in town. Once you cross the river, facing the ruins, look to a street on your left. The upstairs has swings and a very relaxed atmosphere, and the food is very good. Meals run about 15 soles, and lots of cool people are around at night.
- Mayupata Restaurant, Next to the bridge (On you way to the ruins), ☎ 204009. Quality Peruvian dishes and superb pizzas made in a firewood oven and served in a warm atmosphere. Also provides drinks at a bar attend by peruvian owner "Tio Raul". Be ready to enjoy an interesting conversation with someone who knows about the place and local culture.
- La Esquina, Plaza de armas, ☎ 084204078. Small cafe culture; great atmosphere friendly owner; great coffee that is highly recommended. Coffees start from 4s cinnamon rolls a highlight
- Choco Museo, by the fortress ruins entrance. Adding on to their locations in Cusco and Lima, this location has been open since Sept 2013. The museum is free. Classes to learn how to make chocolate are not free. Chocolate products and food stuffs cost PEN2-15, well worth a stop for a snack.
Step 4: Get to Aguas Calientes
If you are traveling in June, that's high season with the most crowds, so book tickets in advance. The early or late trains are the cheapest but they are usually sold out weeks before, so book in advance.
The train ride to Aguas Calientes takes 1 hour 45 minutes. Leave as early as possible to avoid the large crowds in June. 6am is a good start.
There's really nothing to do here, except wait for the bus to Machu Picchu. Wow, you're almost there!
Another option before getting here was to get the late train from Sacred Valley to Aguas Calientes and stay the night at a hostel. However, this option means getting to the train station and waiting around a lot for the late train or taking the expensive afternoon trains. Also, everything at Aguas Calientes is expensive.
Step 5: Bus to Machu Picchu
Arrive about 8am, still way before the large tour buses (10am - 2pm).
Walk out of the station and keep going roughly straight through the warren of handicraft stalls and over a foot bridge to the bus departure area. Starting at 05:30, there's often a queue, so if you're intent on being on the first bus up, you should arrive at least 90 minutes early. The journey takes around 1/2 hour to slowly wind around the switchbacks and up to the park. Buses depart when full, which typically means they run quite regularly. At popular times, there may be a lengthy queue for the buses and a lengthy queue to buy bus tickets, so plan the return trip accordingly in order not to miss train departures.The bus costs 19 USD round trip per person (10 USD for one way per person). You can walk to the ruins for free, but it's steep uphill and takes about an hour and a half. The toilets at the top cost 1 Sol to use.
Tickets:
There are three types of tickets:
Huayna Picchu is not as high and easier and therefore more popular. Tickets for it might sell out more than a week in advance. Montaña is higher and more difficult, but the views are actually better. Tickets for it sometimes sell out. You can check the availability for any, at any time on the website.
You should buy tickets online in advance, but the website sometimes doesn't work. Have patience.
You have to buy your ticket for entering the ruins at the Cultural Centre in Aguas Calientes. This ticket costs S/. 152 per person (including entry to Huayna Picchu) and is valid for 1 entry over a period of 3 days. Be aware that the office will not sell same-day tickets after 2:30PM and that the last entry into Machu Picchu is at 4PM, with visitors herded out by 5PM. Also note that the office will ask for your official passport when buying tickets rather than a photocopy, though agents may be flexible. Remember to take water and snacks with you as the snacks available at the ruins are insanely expensive. Even bring water with you to Aguas Calientes, as the shops there charge about double. Best to bring a packed lunch, if possible.
*For Extreme hikers:
Another way into MP is via the Inca Trail, but I don't recommend it. Through the Sun Gate (instead of arriving from below as you do from Aguas Calientes). Both the four-day and two-day hikes are controlled by the government. Travellers should be fit enough to walk for days and sleep in tents. Every traveller needs to travel with a tour agency because of the rules and regulations of entering the park.)
The Salkantay trek is a 4-5 day trek through the Salkantay Mountain Pass (4600m, mind the altitude!) and can also be done independently if you have the gear and some experience. The scenery is amazing and if you go in the rainy season you will be rewarded with dozens of waterfalls. Though, at the same time, you will be wet for the most part anyways.
The Inka Jungle trek to Machu Picchu is an alternative and adrenaline hike to Machu Picchu.
The Lares Trek is a high altitude trek, you will appreciate the Andean Lifestyle, the classic colourful ponchos, Llamas, Alpacas and stone thatched houses.
Step 6: Machu Picchu
You're finally here!
Food at the site is USD36 for a lunch buffet. Officially, you are not allowed to bring food inside, but no one checks backpacks. If you bring it in a transparent plastic bag, they will ask you to store it at the entrance. Officially, disposable plastic bottles are not allowed either, but no one seems to care about this. Again, it is best to carry everything in the backpack. In the rush at the entrance they don't have time to check everyone.
If you are traveling in June, that's high season with the most crowds, so book tickets in advance. The early or late trains are the cheapest but they are usually sold out weeks before, so book in advance.
The train ride to Aguas Calientes takes 1 hour 45 minutes. Leave as early as possible to avoid the large crowds in June. 6am is a good start.
There's really nothing to do here, except wait for the bus to Machu Picchu. Wow, you're almost there!
Another option before getting here was to get the late train from Sacred Valley to Aguas Calientes and stay the night at a hostel. However, this option means getting to the train station and waiting around a lot for the late train or taking the expensive afternoon trains. Also, everything at Aguas Calientes is expensive.
Step 5: Bus to Machu Picchu
Arrive about 8am, still way before the large tour buses (10am - 2pm).
Walk out of the station and keep going roughly straight through the warren of handicraft stalls and over a foot bridge to the bus departure area. Starting at 05:30, there's often a queue, so if you're intent on being on the first bus up, you should arrive at least 90 minutes early. The journey takes around 1/2 hour to slowly wind around the switchbacks and up to the park. Buses depart when full, which typically means they run quite regularly. At popular times, there may be a lengthy queue for the buses and a lengthy queue to buy bus tickets, so plan the return trip accordingly in order not to miss train departures.The bus costs 19 USD round trip per person (10 USD for one way per person). You can walk to the ruins for free, but it's steep uphill and takes about an hour and a half. The toilets at the top cost 1 Sol to use.
Tickets:
There are three types of tickets:
- MP entrance only
- MP entrance + climbing Huayna Picchu
- MP entrance + climbing Cerro Machu Picchu (also known as Montaña).
Huayna Picchu is not as high and easier and therefore more popular. Tickets for it might sell out more than a week in advance. Montaña is higher and more difficult, but the views are actually better. Tickets for it sometimes sell out. You can check the availability for any, at any time on the website.
You should buy tickets online in advance, but the website sometimes doesn't work. Have patience.
You have to buy your ticket for entering the ruins at the Cultural Centre in Aguas Calientes. This ticket costs S/. 152 per person (including entry to Huayna Picchu) and is valid for 1 entry over a period of 3 days. Be aware that the office will not sell same-day tickets after 2:30PM and that the last entry into Machu Picchu is at 4PM, with visitors herded out by 5PM. Also note that the office will ask for your official passport when buying tickets rather than a photocopy, though agents may be flexible. Remember to take water and snacks with you as the snacks available at the ruins are insanely expensive. Even bring water with you to Aguas Calientes, as the shops there charge about double. Best to bring a packed lunch, if possible.
*For Extreme hikers:
Another way into MP is via the Inca Trail, but I don't recommend it. Through the Sun Gate (instead of arriving from below as you do from Aguas Calientes). Both the four-day and two-day hikes are controlled by the government. Travellers should be fit enough to walk for days and sleep in tents. Every traveller needs to travel with a tour agency because of the rules and regulations of entering the park.)
The Salkantay trek is a 4-5 day trek through the Salkantay Mountain Pass (4600m, mind the altitude!) and can also be done independently if you have the gear and some experience. The scenery is amazing and if you go in the rainy season you will be rewarded with dozens of waterfalls. Though, at the same time, you will be wet for the most part anyways.
The Inka Jungle trek to Machu Picchu is an alternative and adrenaline hike to Machu Picchu.
The Lares Trek is a high altitude trek, you will appreciate the Andean Lifestyle, the classic colourful ponchos, Llamas, Alpacas and stone thatched houses.
Step 6: Machu Picchu
You're finally here!
Food at the site is USD36 for a lunch buffet. Officially, you are not allowed to bring food inside, but no one checks backpacks. If you bring it in a transparent plastic bag, they will ask you to store it at the entrance. Officially, disposable plastic bottles are not allowed either, but no one seems to care about this. Again, it is best to carry everything in the backpack. In the rush at the entrance they don't have time to check everyone.
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Enjoy Machu Picchu:
- Sun Gate (Inti Punku) – if you've just arrived via the Inka Trail, this will be your first experience of the ruins. Others can backtrack from the ruins along the trail and up the hill. From here you can see back down each valley offering excellent views. It's a fairly strenuous hike (probably 1-1.5 hours each way) but well worth it. If you catch the first bus from Aguas Calientes and head straight here you may be able to reach it in time for sun to peek over the mountain and through the gate.
- Temple of the Sun – Near the summit of the main city, the stonework on the temple is incredible. Look closely and you will see that there are a variety of stone walls throughout the city. Most are rough stones held together with mud, the common stone walls found throughout the world. But many buildings or parts of buildings are done with the more distinctive and impressive closely-fit stonework. The temple is the absolute pinnacle of this technology. Observe it from the side, descending the stone staircase in the main plaza.
- Intihuatana – A stone carved so that on certain days, at dawn, the sun makes a certain shadow, thus working as a sun dial. From Quechua: Inti = sun, huatana = to take, grab: thus grabbing (measuring) the sun. (pronounce 'intiwatana')
- Temple of the Three Windows –
- Main Temple –
- Temple of the Condor – The tour guides will try to tell you that this was a temple, but look closely: between the wings of the condor is a chamber with grooves cut in the stone to secure manacles, a walkway behind where a torturer may have walked to whip the prisoners' backs, and a scary looking pit to let the blood of prisoners drain. Clearly the condor was a symbol of cruel justice, but a sanitized version is told for the benefit of middle-aged tourists and their children.
- Wayna Picchu. If you have some energy in you, there are a few great hikes involving a bit of legwork. Do make sure that you've taken the time to acclimate to the elevation either in Cuzco or Aguas Calientes for a couple days before exerting yourself too much, especially on Wayna Picchu.Towering above the south end of Machu Picchu is this steep mountain, often the backdrop to many photos of the ruins. It looks a bit daunting from below, but while steep, it's not an unusually difficult ascent, and most reasonably fit persons shouldn't have a problem. Stone steps are laid along most of the path, and in the steeper sections steel cables provide a supporting handrail. That said, expect to be out of breath, and take care in the steeper portions, especially when wet, as it can become dangerous quickly. There's a tiny cave near the top that must be passed through, it is quite low and a rather tight squeeze. Take care at the peak, it can be somewhat precarious, and those afraid of heights may want to hang out just below. The entire walk is through beautiful landscape, and the views from the top are stunning, including birds eye views over the whole site. There's also a few ruins near the top. If visiting these ruins, you'll see a second way to start making your descent down the mountain, along some very steep and shallow steps.... these steps are a bit dangerous if wet, but the hike may be well worthwhile. This hike is one of your best bets for getting away from Machu Picchu and Wayna Picchu crowds. *after 2011* Tickets to Wayna Picchu had to be reserved beforehand - ask the tour company with which you are going to Machu Picchu to reserve this for you. you have to pay to climb Wayna Picchu. 2012: cost c. USD15 Note: Only 400 people allowed per day to climb the mountain, split into two groups. Group one enters 07:00-08:00 and is told to be back by 11:00. edit
- If you have some time at hand, or long for a sparkle of solitude, you can also walk to the Moon Temple (Templo de la Luna) and the Great Cave (Gran Caverne). It's a long walk and adventurous hike involving several ladders. Some may find that the sites aren't really rewarding, but unexpected wildlife can be seen (wild spectacled bears have been reported). This hike is also quite interesting because partway through you leave behind the mountain terrain and enter a more conventional forest. The caves can be reached either by hiking down the trail from the peak of Waynapicchu (which includes some semi-harrowing but fun near-vertical descents) or by the split from the main Waynapicchu trail (look for the sign that says Gran Carern). Remember that it is much easier to descend from Waynapicchu than to ascend from these temples. Be sure to bring plenty of water and snacks for this long hike. The hike from the summit to the caves and back to the checkpoint takes about two more hours
What to Enjoy in Cusco:
Historic
Fun
- The Four Archaeological Ruins, The closest and largest of these ruins is the amazing Inca Sacsayhuamán (sometimes called Saqsaywaman and pronounced "Sock-say-wah-mun") ruins high above Cuzco. It is a steep climb from the Plaza de Armas up Plateros street which changes to Saphi. Look for the long staircase on the right, follow the paved curvy road up to the next cobblestone pedestrian path and follow this climb past the first closed control point to the second control. No need to take a cab if you can handle it. But, be careful, as robberies have been reported in mornings and evenings. There is a charge to explore the ruins at the second control or present your the boleto turistico. Read up on the battle beforehand as the guides don't discuss it. Also, a view of the circular base of the former tower as shown in many of the photos is not possible due to the protective ropes. Go earlier in the morning as later visits are disrupted by whistles from guards telling unobservant tourists to get off the ruins. Those on a budget can get a sense of the ruins without paying by walking up the hill and up to the entrance. You can then walk to the adjacent hill with the big Jesus on it and look down on the city. Also, if you arrive before 7am you can enter the ruins for free. This is very easy and also not frowned upon- if you are leaving after the guards have arrived they just nod hello and there are plenty people doing it. Great idea for "budget" travelers.
- Sacsayhuaman is the ruins by the white Jesus. You need a boleto touristico to get in. A 10 day pass to all sites is 130 sol for foreigners. You can also get a single day pass to 4 sites (one of which is Sacsayhuamn) for 70 sol or if you are Peruvian, 40 sol.
- The walls of the city are Inca, particularly near the Plaza de Armas.
- Monumento Pachacuteq, down Av. Sol, is a statue of the Inca warrior King Pachacuteq. The statue is placed on a cylindrical base and the total monument is over 22 m high. The cylindrical base can be climbed, but views are disappointing because the monument is located at a lower part of town. Admission with the boleto turistico.
Fun
- Go to San Pedro Market - Local market with a special aisle for entrails. Colorful, vibrant, packed, San Pedro Market is not to be missed. This market is by Peruvians for Peruvians - however, a large percentage of the shops sell souvernirs to tourists.
- Walk around the Plaza de Armas; the square has churches, shops, restaurants and bars backing on to it and is a great place to spend an afternoon. The historical center of Cuzco is beautiful, but you will have to deal with all the street vendors and hawkers of cheap paintings and other souvenirs. They are everywhere in and around the Plaza de Armas. They somewhat spoil the experience.
- Get a massage. You will invariably be propositioned by young ladies handing out flyers advertising massages. These are legit, only cost 15-20 Soles for 1+ hour, but are not done by trained masseuses. Still, for the price it can't be beat.
- Check out the Plaza de San Francisco, which is a few blocks southwest of the center, and is a great place to visit one of Cuzco's many great coffee shops. Next to the Plaza is the main market, which is fairly traditional and is a worthwhile visit. The market has a mix of stalls selling food and other household items as well as clothing and souvenirs.
- Play Sapo, a traditional bar game played in chicharias all over Peru. The game involves throwing small coins, called fichas, at a table with a bronze sapo (toad) attached. You get points for making it into holes on the table, and a ton of points for making it into the sapo's mouth. Best played while drinking chicha (corn beer) at a local dive. Ask old men to show you the correct throwing form, as it's difficult to master.
- Talk to local store owners, curators, waitresses and bartenders. They typically know a little English if your Spanish is not good, and are generally happy to share interesting information about the city not found in guidebooks. This is also a great way to find the best places to try cuy, alpaca, and chicha.
- Once you are accustomed to the altitude, go for a jog! This is a very humbling experience, as the hills and thin air prove a challenge to even those in great shape. It's also a good way to explore. Head east or south of the plaza for the safest places. If you're a woman out exercising, you may get a few cat calls, as this is common in much of Latin America.
- Take a Salsa class (Salseros Cusco), a fabulous little salsa school offering private and group classes at minimal price in two central locations. With enthusiastic teachers and a number of styles taught, this is the perfect time to polish your moves and get ready to shine on the dance floor. Ask for Franshesco Efernetti if you want private classes
Food of Cusco:
Best pizza ever at the end of the Av. La Cultura. Be sure to try an alpaca steak (don't forget a llama/alpaca is normally kept and used for its wool - so only old animals will be slaughtered).
The soups are amazing. Try sopa de zapallo, a type of pumpkin soup.
If you are looking for traditional Peruvian food try lomo saltado (beef tips stir-fried with tomatoes, onions, and spices, over a bed of french fries and rice), aji de gallina(chicken in a very good yellow pepper sauce with olives and hard-boiled eggs), or papa rellena (stuffed potato with beef, olives, hard-boiled egg, vegetables, and spices)
When leaving Cuzco, there is a place called Boing Appetit (in front of the Airport, just if you want to have breakfast or a sandiwich before take the plane to Lima) its the only place that counts with free internet conection in front of the airport.
Where to Eat:
Best pizza ever at the end of the Av. La Cultura. Be sure to try an alpaca steak (don't forget a llama/alpaca is normally kept and used for its wool - so only old animals will be slaughtered).
The soups are amazing. Try sopa de zapallo, a type of pumpkin soup.
If you are looking for traditional Peruvian food try lomo saltado (beef tips stir-fried with tomatoes, onions, and spices, over a bed of french fries and rice), aji de gallina(chicken in a very good yellow pepper sauce with olives and hard-boiled eggs), or papa rellena (stuffed potato with beef, olives, hard-boiled egg, vegetables, and spices)
When leaving Cuzco, there is a place called Boing Appetit (in front of the Airport, just if you want to have breakfast or a sandiwich before take the plane to Lima) its the only place that counts with free internet conection in front of the airport.
- Cuy, (guinea pig), The absolute traditional holiday food of the region. You can buy a whole cooked cuy in many of the restaurants around Plaza de Armas. In 2012 cuy cost 60S at all these places. There are also dedicated 'cuyerias' that serve much cheaper cuy.
- Alpaca, Grilled, tastes like a more tender steak. You must try it. You can get alpaca pizza as well.
- Cooked potatoes, Cooked and served hot in the cold season.
- Chifa. This is the Peruvian version of Chinese food. The neighborhood of Wanchaq has many Chifa restaurants.
- Inca Kola, a bubble gum/tutti-frutti-flavored golden-yellow soda. This drink outsells Coca-Cola in Peru, although its maker has been a subsidiary of the Coca-Cola company since 1999. Also, chicha morada is a Peruvian specialty. It's a spiced non-alcoholic drink made out of purple corn.
Where to Eat:
- El Encuentro, vegetarian restaurants - very reasonably priced with huge portions. The 5 soles dinner is very popular and includes soup, main course & mate. Free salads with lunch. They also do soy meat very well. There are two of these restaurants but the one in Calle Leon near Plaza de Armas is at least 1 sol cheaper for the exact same menu.
- El Balcon, Soup, main course, and desert (no drink) for 10 soles, about US$3.70. If you're looking for good quality food for not a lot of money, this is the place to go.
- Al Gustitos de Loli, caller recoleta. Owned by a very friendly peruvian woman and his brother. It's a small "gourmet" restaurant, a bit more expensive then basic restaurants (20-30 soles), but cheap for that quality. The food is really good, especially the homemade pastas. Very good option for a romantic dinner.
- Inka Grill, on the Plaza de Armas, Well-known and frequented by tourists but not a trap. Excellent food. Good place to try Cuy (guinea pig); some people have reported mud butt after eating it, it is tastily done and served without the head so eating doesn't remind you of your pet hamster. Try the appetizer tiradito de trucha. Alpaca also on the menu.
- Ajjla Wasi (now rebranded to Peruana), calle Arequipa, (just off the Plaza de Armas, after Santa Catalina Monastery). Traditional 3 course meals with a glass of chicha for only 7 soles and a comfortable upstairs setting. It is frequented by a mix of locals and tourists.
- El Emperador, They have 2 restaurants within the city, both are very reasonably priced. They have a 13-page menu with all sorts of foods from around the world. Try the pisco sour tall.
- Inkazuela, Plazoleta Nazarenas 167. Quality restaurant that serves local and Peruvian dishes. Everything feels like has been cooked with love
- Greens Organic. Organic and healthy food, with a Peruvian emphasis. Delicious quinoa and a fruity desert menu to die for, especially the mango ravioli with passion fruit. Try their smoothies as well. Affordable for tourists, but not the cheapest option. Near Plaza de Armas: Santa Catalina Angosta 135, Piso 2.
- Yaku Mama', (at the end of the 'Gringo Alley').. Try a big fresh juice with one of their large and keenly priced breakfasts.
- Yaku Mama Grill, Plaza de Armas (The sister restaurant of Yaku Mama). Cheerful English-speaking waitress named Yolanda, but is a bit short on the alpacas. Good meals.
- Jack's Cafe, Choquechaca 188, (on the corner and near the South American Explorers clubhouse). Food and coffee. This is a great place to get a big breakfast complete with eggs, bacon, avocado, toast and fantastic thick shakes. Try the homemade lemonades.
- Right outside of Jack's is an empanada stand which has great rocoto salsa, a spicy salsa that goes well on the cheese or meat-stuffed pastries.
- Plus Restaurant Cuzco, Enjoy an exciting array of a la carte dishes, cocktails, and drinks in a warm and cozy ambience boasting an extraordinary view of the Plaza de Armas. Enjoy our grilled selections prepared with select cuts of meat and a distinct touch, the local flavors and colors of our traditional Cusqueño and Andean dishes, and our fusion dishes presenting well-loved international meals prepared with unique Peruvian ingredients. Cheap prices. ☎ 84 246870
- Paddy's Irish Pub, 124 Calle Triunfo, (on the eastern corner of Plaza de Armas). The night-brother of Jack's Cafe. Not exactly traditional Peruvian fare, but an excellent atmosphere amongst fellow travelers in a cozy upstairs pub setting. Purportedly the highest 'Irish-owned' pub in the world at 3,400 m, it offers a good selection of pub food (think cottage pie, casseroles, mash and gravy), local and international drinks (even had cider and Guiness), and a useful "No Gracias" T-shirt for sale.
- Mama Africa, On 3 levels. Snacks, a cafe on the rooftop, restaurant with a good cheap menu, 2 discos, the latest movies on DVD. Some of the decorations and paintings are by the owner/artist.
- Cross Keys Pub, Calle Triunfo 350, Close to the Plaza de Armas (the central square) is a pub serving European food to tourists. Skip the fish and chips.
- Kukuly, Huaynapata 318, A cozy place with friendly prices also attracting locals, run by a Swiss guy. Daily menu for 6 soles.
- Los Angelos, (close to Ukuku's and near the Plaza de ArmasIf). For late night food after clubbing, a very good fast food-type restaurant.
- 2 Nations, Huaynapata, (not too far and not too close to the Plaza de Armas). New restaurant opened up by an Australian named Matt. Extensive, multi-ethnic menu, good service and personable owner.
- Meli Melo's, (near LimacpampaIf). If you are not brave enough to try the empanadas on the street then order an empanada or a Bolivian saltena here.
- Victor Victoria, Calle Tsesequocha, (just off Calle Tigre). Friendly service. Great salad bar buffet included in all main dishes. Gorgeous garlic trout with rice or potatoes for 10 soles (including the salad bar buffet and lovely fresh bread) but only for lunch. Great value breakfasts. Regular glasses of freshly squeezed juice for 6 soles. Also they have a proper espresso machine for good coffee in the morning.
- Cicciolinia's, Calle Triunfo 393, (at the end of the alley by the 12-sided stone). Very tasty place to go for breakfast. There is an amazing bakers downstairs.
- El Mercado, (in front of the train station). A roofed market where they sell delicious local bread, herbs, juices, souvenirs, DVDs and other items. If you want something truly more local, very cheap, then head over here. At the end of the market are the food stands, where they serve local food. For 2 soles you can get soup, an entree, and juice. All the locals know where the train station and El Mercado is. This is where many local workers go for their meals, not exactly a tourist place, but they are friendly towards tourists.
- El Fogon, Plateros 365 (Just off of Plaza de Armas, top floor), ☎ 233596. Nothing fancy but great cheap food: for 10 soles (about US$3.50) get a meal deal that includes a plate from the salad bar, a selection of soup, a selection of main dish, a dessert and a beverage. Or splurge with their more expensive menu offer for 20 Soles. Very tasty Peruvian food. Friendly staff.
- Bagdad Cafe, (left of the cathedral). This small restaurant seems to produce everything themselves. Local food is extremely good, in the evening small performance groups enter the restaurant and give excellent performances. The prices are mid-range, but it is sure worth it. The daily menu lunch special is more like a snack.
- Chifa Status, Av. La Cultura (close to El Mega supermarket). Good quality Chifa. Dishes for 2-3 soles.
- Puerto Atico, (Perú Steet between Mateo Pumacahua and La Infancia). The "pueto atico" ceviche that is Pejerey with Pulpo, and the Jalea de Mariscos are the must try.
- Maikhani, Av Del Sol (second floor in little mall before you get to Plaza de Armas). Great Indian food served as an all you can eat buffet for only 15 soles. You get mineral water, salad, chutneys and fruit included but it is extra for chapatis, beers or similar.15 sol.
- Encantasqa, Choquechaca 131. A nice place to have a break with coffee and a snack. Especially the chocolate cupcakes are delicious and make up for half a lunch. They also have fresh cakes, quiches and juices.
- Prasada, Qanchipata 269 (sit-down restaurant; lunch & dinner) & Choquechaca 152 (alley-way; lunch) (about half a block from Jack's Cafe, a bit hard to find in a small alley walkway, and is only marked by a small blackboard outside listing the daily specials). Cute local vegetarian spot. The food is delicious. For 5 soles you can get plates like "falafel tacos" and "mexican veggi burger". Also, they have lassies (a hindi yogurt drink), and tasty desserts for a few soles. At the sit-down restaurant they do a daily menu (drink, soup and plate) for 8 soles (USD $3.50). Can't be beat! US$3.50.
- Dragon's Palate, Calle Arequipa/Q'hapchik'ijllu 159 (walkway next to Scotia Bank), . 9:30 AM to 10 PM. Restaurant & patio-beer garden in restored colonial home. International-Peruvian menu with beef, alpaca, and pasta dishes, Peruvian soups, and American breakfasts; moderate prices and substantial portions. $5 - $15.
- Nuna Raymi, Calle Triunfo (Sunturwasi) #356, 2do. Piso-Cusco (Half block from Plaza De Armas, next to the Cathedral), ☎ (51-84) 224644, . 10:30am-10:30pm. Amazing Peruvian cuisine both in taste and presentation. They are very passionate about food and have many dishes to choose ranging from Lomo Saltado(beef sirloin) to Cuy Horneado(guinea pig). The prices are very reasonable considering how exquisite the food is. The ambiance is very pleasant and authentic. They also offer cooking classes which I took part in after tasting the food here. Price Range : 16-31 soles (US$6-12)
- La Bondiet (Pastry Coffee Shop), Calle Plateros 118 (NW of Plaza de Armas), ☎ 246823,. 7am - 11pm. Excellent place for breakfast or a sweat treat. Fruit salad with yoghurt and muesli S/.8, non alcoholic drinks S/.5-8, cakes S/.6-7. Prices similar to what you find around Plaza de Armas but with much better service.
- Divina Rosa, huaynapata no. 410 esquina con calle suecia, ☎ 084-506678. 8am-10pm. Tradicional Peruvian food serving alpaca, guinea pig and quinoa dishes. Good menu consisting of an appetizer, soup and main for 12 soles with a juice and desert. Nice place only a 2 minute walk from the plaza de armas. 12 soles.